100. Can a credit card company raise my rates for making a large payment?
No. Credit card companies will typically not care about your individual credit card account. Instead they look either at a "package" of card accounts opened at roughly the same time, or of "slices" of cardholder accounts by credit rating. If an entire package's or slice's balance drops significantly, they'll take a look, and will adjust rates accordingly (often they may actually decrease rates as an incentive to increase you use of the card). Because credit card debt is unstructured debt, the bank cannot impose an "early payment penalty" of any kind (there's no schedule for paying it off, so there's no way to prove that they're missing out on $X in interest because you paid early). Generally, banks don't like CC debt anyway; it's very risky debt, and they often end up writing large balances off for pennies on the dollar. So, when you pay down your balance by a significant amount, the banks breathe a sigh of relief. The real money, the stable money, is in the usage fees; every time you swipe your card, the business who accepted it owes the credit card company 3% of your purchase, and sometimes more.

101. Should we prepay our private student loans, given our particular profile?
Based on your numbers, it sounds like you've got 12 years left in the private student loan, which just seems to be an annoyance to me.  You have the cash to pay it off, but that may not be the optimal solution. You've got $85k in cash!  That's way too much. So your options are:  -Invest 40k -Pay 2.25% loan off -Prepay mortgage 40k Play around with this link: mortgage calculator Paying the student loan, and applying the $315 to the monthly mortgage reduces your mortgage by 8 years. It also reduces the nag factor of the student loan. Prepaying the mortgage (one time) reduces it by 6 years. (But, that reduces the total cost of the mortgage over it's lifetime the most) Prepaying the mortgage and re-amortizing it over thirty years (at the same rate) reduces your mortgage payment by $210, which you could apply to the student loan, but you'd need to come up with an extra $105 a month.

102. Should Emergency Funds be Used for Infrequent, but Likely, Expenses?
I would suggest that you use Emergency Funds for things that have a Low likelihood of happening but if they do happen can be devastating. I used to work as a financial advisor and the sugfestion we gave people is to have about 3 months worth of expenses in cash. This was primarily to cover things luke loss of work or some unforseen even that would prevent you from missing work for an extended period of time. Once you have your emergency fund saved do not touch it! Leave it where it is. Then tou can start working on a savings account for those items that are more likely to happen but dont have as much of a negative impact.

103. When's the best time to sell the stock of a company that is being acquired/sold?
This is but one opinion.  Seek others before your act. "When someone puts a million dollars in your hand, close your hand." A 50% gain in two weeks is huge.

104. Home loan transferred to Freddie Mac — What does this mean?
Lenders may sell your mortgage to other lenders for a fee.  For example,  your lender might sell your mortgage to the highest bidder who may want to purchase your mortgage by making a one time payment.  For your lender that's a quick profit, for the new owner of your mortgage, that's long term returns for a one time fee.  For your lender, that is forgoing long term returns for short term gains (and transfer of risk in case you default).   (Very similar to how bonds work in a stock exchange!) What does this mean to you? Nothing.  You will still keep making payments to your original lender.   What does 'transfer of ownership has not been publicly recorded mean'? It means, when you are asked about ownership details regarding your mortgage, and this could be in tax forms or refinancing etc., you would enter your original lender's information and not Freddit Mac's! Pro-tip There are lots of scams based on this.  You might receive an official looking letter in mail claiming your loan has been sold and you should start making payments to the new owner. DO NOT FALL FOR THIS! Call your original lender (use the phone number from your loan papers, not mail you received) and verify this information.   And if this were to happen, your original lender would always inform you first.   And hey, congrats on your new home! :)

105. Why do I get a much better price for options with a limit order than the ask price?
There are people whose strategy revolves around putting orders at the bid and ask and making money off people who cross the spread.  If you put an order in between the current bid/ask, people running that type of strategy will usually pick it off, viewing it as a discount to the orders that they already have on the bid/ask.  Often these people are trading by computer, so your limit order may get hit so quickly that it appears instantaneous to you.  In reality, you were probably hit by a limit order placed specifically to fill against yours.

106. How to execute a large stock purchase, relative to the order book?
I normally just do a buy limit at the price I want to buy it at. Then it executes when it's that price or lower, but there's still a chance you might purchase some shares at a larger price. But since we're small fry and using brokerages, there's not much we can do about it.

107. Where should my money go next: savings, investments, retirement, or my mortgage?
As the others said, you're doing everything right. So, at this it's not a matter of what you should do, it's a matter of what do you want to do? What would make you the happiest?  So, what would you like to do most with that extra money? The point is, since you're already doing everything right with the rest of your money, there's really nothing you can do that's wrong with this money. Except using it on something that increases your monthly expenses, like a down payment on a car.  In fact, there's no reason you have to do anything "sensible" with this money at all. You could blow it at nightclubs if you wanted to, and that would be perfectly ok. In fact, since you've got everything else covered, why not "invest" it in making some memories? How about vacations to exotic and rugged places, while you're still young enough to enjoy them?

108. What are the benefits of opening an IRA in an unstable/uncertain economy?
Even Gold lost 1/2 of it's value between 1980 and 2000.   You would not have fared well if you retired during that period heavily invested in Gold. http://www.usagold.com/reference/prices/history.html You said yourself that one can not foresee what the future will bring. At least IRA's force you to into dollar cost averaging, whereas if your money was outside of a retirement account, you might be tempted to speculate. -Ralph Winters

109. How to determine duration of a common stock whose dividends grow in perpetuity?
The Dividend Discount Model is based on the concept that the present value of a stock is the sum of all future dividends, discounted back to the present. Since you said: dividends are expected to grow at a constant rate in perpetuity ... the Gordon Growth Model is a simple variant of the DDM, tailored for a firm in "steady state" mode, with dividends growing at a rate that can be sustained forever. Consider McCormick (MKC), who's last dividend was 31 cents, or $1.24 annualized. The dividend has been growing just a little over 7% annually. Let's use a discount, or hurdle rate of 10%. MKC closed today at $50.32, for what it's worth. The model is extremely sensitive to inputs. As g approaches r, the stock price rises to infinity. If g > r, stock goes negative. Be conservative with 'g' -- it must be sustainable forever.  The next step up in complexity is the two-stage DDM, where the company is expected to grow at a higher, unsustainable rate in the early years (stage 1), and then settling down to the terminal rate for stage 2. Stage 1 is the present value of dividends during the high growth period. Stage 2 is the Gordon Model, starting at the end of stage 1, and discounting back to the present. Consider Abbott Labs (ABT). The current annual dividend is $1.92, the current dividend growth rate is 12%, and let's say that continues for ten years (n), after which point the growth rate is 5% in perpetuity. Again, the discount rate is 10%. Stage 1 is calculated as follows: Stage 2 is GGM, using not today's dividend, but the 11th year's dividend, since stage 1 covered the first ten years. 'gn' is the terminal growth, 5% in our case. then... The value of the stock today is 21.22 + 51.50 = 72.72 ABT closed today at $56.72, for what it's worth.

110. Rate of change of beta
This is a useful metric in that it gives you a trust factor on how reliable the beta is for future expectations   It is akin to velocity and acceleration  First  and second order derivatives of distance / time.  Erratic acceleration implies the velocity is less trustworthy  Same idea for beta

111. Am I “cheating the system” by opening up a tiny account with a credit union and then immediately applying for a huge loan?
Credit Unions turn a profit by lending money at a higher interest rate than their savings do, just like banks do. It is an amoral feat, completely parallel to any moral weights you have assigned to "the system". If the most favorable circumstance is you receiving access to capital, then you can easily achieve that with zero reservations about the system that granted it to you.

112. Pay online: credit card or debit card?
Nowadays, some banks in some countries offer things like temporary virtual cards for online payments. They are issued either free of charge or at a negligible charge, immediately, via bank's web interface (access to which might either be free or not, this varies). You get a separate account for the newly-issued "card" (the "card" being just a set of numbers), you transfer some money there (same web-interface), you use it to make payment(s), you leave $0 on that "card" and within a day or a month, it expires. Somewhat convenient and your possible loss is limited tightly. Check if your local banks offer this kind of service.

113. What should I do with the stock from my Employee Stock Purchase Plan?
While my margin is not nearly as good as yours, I sell out early.  I generally think it's a bad idea to hold any single stock, as they can vary wildly in value.  However, as you mention, it's advantageous to hold for one year.  Read more about Capital Gains Taxes here and here.

114. Who could afford a higher annual deductible who couldn't afford a higher monthly payment?
It's simple. Most people don't spend $6000 a year in medical care. As for myself, there's probably only $400 or less, mostly in annual checkups and the like.  If you are the type to require more medical care, then you will pay more per month. I know a person with asthma, kidney stones, and inflammatory issues. This person spends probably $1000 in co-pays per year, with considerable more if you were to include the hospital visits in the likes. But if you don't think you are one of these people, then don't get the higher cost plan.

115. UK student loans, early repayment/avoiding further debt
I think you're right that from a pure "expected future value" perspective, it makes sense to pay this loan off as quickly as possible (including not taking the next year's loan). The new student loans with the higher interest rates have changed the balance enough that it's no longer automatically better to keep it going as long as possible. The crucial point in your case, which isn't true for many people, is that you will likely have to pay it off eventually anyway and so in terms of net costs over your lifetime you will do best by paying it off quickly. A few points to set against that, that you might want to consider: Not paying it off is a good hedge against your career not going as well as you expect, e.g. if the economy does badly, you have health problems, you take a career break for any reason. If that happens, you would end up not being forced to pay it off, so will end up gaining from not having done so voluntarily. The money you save in that case could be more valuable to you that the money you would lose if your career does go well. Not paying it off will increase your net cash earlier in life when you are more likely to need it, e.g. for a house deposit. Having more free cash could increase your options, making it possible to buy a house earlier in life. Or it could mean you have a higher deposit when you do buy, reducing the interest rate on the entire mortgage balance. The savings from that could end up being more than the 6% interest on the loan even though when you look at the loan in isolation it seems like a very bad rate.

116. Should I purchase a whole life insurance policy? (I am close to retirement)
Disclaimer: I work in life insurance, but I am not an agent.   First things first, there is not enough information here to give you an answer.  When discussing life insurance, the very first things we need to fully consider are the illustration of policy values, and the contract itself.  Without these, there is no way to tell if this is a good idea or not. So what are the things to look for? A. Risk appetite.  People love to discuss projections of the market, like for example, "7-8% a year compounded annually".  Go look at the historical returns of the stock market.  It is never close to that projection.  Life insurance, however, can give you a GUARANTEED return (this would be show in the 'Guaranteed' section of the life insurance illustration).  As long as you pay your premiums, this money is guaranteed to accrue.  Now most life insurance companies also show 'Non-Guaranteed' elements in their illustrations - these are non-guaranteed projections based on a scale at this point in time.  These columns will show how your cash value may grow when dividends are credited to your policy (and used to buy paid-up additional insurance, which generates more dividends - this can be compared to the compounding nature of interest).   B. Tax treatment.  I am definitely not an expert in this area, but life insurance does have preferential tax treatment, particularly to your beneficiaries. C. Beneficiaries.  Any death benefit (again, listed as guaranteed and maybe non-guaranteed values) is generally completely tax free for the beneficiary. D. Strategy.  Tying all of this together, what exactly is the point of this?  To transfer wealth, to accrue wealth, or some combination thereof?  This is important and unstated in your question. So again, without knowing more, there is no way to answer your question.  But I am surprised that in this forum, so many people are quick to jump in and say in general that whole life insurance is a scam.  And even more surprising is the fact the accepted answer has already been accepted. My personal take is that if you are just trying to accrue wealth, you should probably stick to the market and maybe buy term if you want a death benefit component.  This is mostly due to your age (higher risk of death = higher premiums = lower buildup) and how long of a time period you have to build up money in the policy.  But if a 25 year old asked this same question, depending on his purposes, I may suggest that a WL policy is in fact a good idea.
